|
|
|

Deertrackers is based
on the edge of the Cotswolds with the main species of deer in the area being muntjac, roe & the occasional fallow. I also
work my hounds on foxes when requested to control them. This just adds another dimension of work for
my hounds.When hunting, whether from high seat or
stalking on foot, I always have a hound at my side. Stalking without a K9 companion would be so much less enjoyable.In the past I have trained Labs,
spaniels & the one who gave me much pleasure was my cocker X Brittany, Barrington. It wasn’t until I purchased my
first B.M.H, Wallace, from Jan Andrews that I became aware of the work I had been making for myself
by using other breeds. At twelve weeks of age I laid the first track for Wallace, aged it for approximately
six hours, what an eye opener! You could see by his whole attitude, the way he buried his nose into the whole blood track,
how he didn’t lift his head, that this is what the B.M.H lives for and excels at above all other breeds. To
train a B.M.H takes a lot of commitment. If all you require is a dog for hot scent work then get
a labrador.
Bringing
on your B.M.H I
personally keep my hounds living indoors, rather than choosing to kennel them. I personally prefer to have them around me,
which is part of what owning a dog is all about. Other people kennel their hounds, but the B.M.H is
such a loyal companion, I feel they do better spending as much time with their master as possible. It will also depend on
individual circumstances of course.Even though the B.M.H is a natural cold scenting hound this needs
nurturing, from a very early age they are best encouraged to get a love of blood. Eight weeks old is not too young. This is
easily done by dragging a piece of deer liver or heart a short distance across grass, give it
ten minutes, take your pup to the start of the track, encourage him to sniff the ground and follow the trail. Don’t
worry about how long he takes, just praise him, your pup might seem to take for an age to move on; as he wants to lick all
the blood up as he goes. At the end of the trail should be a piece of liver/heart, as a reward, it is also good to have something
the pup can play with at the end, as this will register with the pup - tracking results in reward, food and play time. I have
found the tail of a deer is good as they can easily carry it and if the bone is left intact it gives them something to chew
on. The best reward you can give your hound is much praise from you the master. You now can progress slowly, never overmatch your hound at such an early age, as it will only bring
disappointment to you, which your hound will pick up on. As your pup grows, swap the dragged liver/heart to just some deer
pins(hair) at the start of the track with a fair amount of blood, this is to replicate the point of shot. Dribble the blood
from a bottle to where you want to end, use plenty of blood until you can see your hound is really working, once it is obviously
working for the scent you can start leaving gaps between blood spots, introduce a few shallow turns and introduce the slots
of deer to the tracking training. This is easily done by wearing yourself tracking shoes, which are basically a metal or rubber
sole that you attach deer slots to, and then wear them over your boots. To start with you can just use a decent hazel stick
with a slot attached by jubilee clips.

|
| waidwerk tracking shoes |
What
you should be trying to achieve, is for the hound to make a relationship with the smell of blood to the smell of the deer
slots. Always when using two deer slots, make sure they are off the same beast. You want your hound to
be able to track individual deer through herds of the same deer. You and your hound now slowly progress, longer tracks, turns of various degrees,
lays included on the track, using less blood and ageing the track. You should at the very least be looking
at tracks of twenty four hours old, by the time your pup is nine months old.
|
Bavarian Mountain
Scent Hound FCI 217
TRANSLATION : C.
Seidler. ORIGIN : Germany. DATE OF PUBLICATION OF THE ORIGINAL VALID STANDARD
: 01.04.1996. UTILIZATION : Scenthound. CLASSIFICATION F.C.I. : Group 6, Scenthounds and related breeds. Section 2, Leash (Scent) hounds.
With working trial.
BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY : All Liam Hounds (Leithunde) and Leashhounds (Schweisshunde) are descended from the original hunting
dogs, the “Bracken”. All pure “Bracken” have the finest nose for following ground
scent and trail; they are firm on scent, have a strongly developed will to follow a trail and are readily giving tongue on
scent.Only the most reliable and perseverant Bracken
were chosen from the pack to be used on the leash to search for the lost trail of the hunted game. From
those most calm and biddable Bracken, the Liam Hounds (Leithunde, working only on natural, cold scent) and the “Scent
Hounds” (Schweisshunde, the so called “spoilt Liam Hounds”, working the trial of wounded game) were later
bred.Through crossing of genetically fairly close
breeds at the end of the 18th and beginning of the 19th century, the present day Hanoverian Scenthound
evolved. After the Revolution
in 1848, in fact, after the break up of the large hunting estates and the replacement of the previous hunting methods by stalking
and hiding (waiting for the game) and at the same time with the improvement of the firearms, the dog was needed “after
the shot”. Specialized in firmly working on the leash, one could not dispense with the loud chase,
perseverance and keenness, especially in mountain regions. There the Hanovarian Scenthound proved too heavy.
To achieve the desired accomplishments, even in difficult
mountain territory, Baron Karg-Bebenburg, Reichenhall, bred the racy and ennobled lighter Mountain Scenthound after 1870,
by crossing Hanovarian Scenthounds and red Mountain Scenthounds. More and more these dogs ousted other
breeds from the mountain regions so that the Bavarian Mountain Scenthound is, today, the classical companion for the professional
hunter and game keeper.In 1912 the Club for Bavarian
Mountain Scenthounds was founded with its seat in Munich. It is the only recognized Club for Bavarian Mountain
Scenthounds in Germany. GENERAL APPEARANCE : An altogether balanced, lightish, very mobile and muscular, medium size dog. The body is slightly
longer than high, slightly higher at rear, standing on not too long legs. Head carried level or slightly
upwards, tail level or slanting downwards. BEHAVIOUR / TEMPERAMENT : Calm and balanced, devoted to his owner, reserved with strangers. Required is
a sound, self assured, unafraid, biddable dog, neither shy nor aggressive. HEAD CRANIAL REGION : Skull : Relatively broad,
flatly arched. Clear rise to forehead. Superciliary arches well developed; occiput not
pronounced.Stop : Well defined. FACIAL REGION : Nose : Of good size, not too broad.
Nostrils well opened. Black or dark red.Muzzle : Somewhat off-set from eyes, slightly shorter than skull, sufficiently
broad, never pointed. Nasal bridge slightly convex or straight.Lips/Flews : Pendulous, medium thickness. Corner
of lips clearly visible. Jaws/Teeth : Strong jaws with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite in which the upper incisors overlap
the lower incisors without any gap and with the teeth set vertical to the jaw. 42 healthy teeth, according
to tooth formula. Pincer bite permitted.Cheeks : Only moderately pronounced.Eyes : Clear, alert expression. Not too
large or too round. Dark brown or slightly lighter. Well fitting, pigmented lids.Leathers : Somewhat
over medium length but at most reaching to nose. Heavy, set on high and broad, rounded at tips.
Hanging close to head without any twist. NECK : Of medium length and strong. Skin somewhat looser on throat. BODY :Upper profile : Slight rise
from withers to hindquarters.Withers : Barely defined, flowing transition from neck to back.Back : Strong and supple.Croup : Long and fairly level.Loins : Relatively short,
broad, very well muscled.Chest : Moderately broad, well developed forechest, oval ribcage, deep and long, with ribs reaching far
back.Lower profile and Belly : Gradually rising towards rear. Belly slightly tucked up. TAIL : Medium length, reaching, at most, to hocks. Set
on high, carried horizontal or slightly slanting downwards. LIMBS FOREQUARTERS : General : Legs seen from
the front, straight and parallel; seen from the side, standing well under the body. Good angulations.Shoulder : Well slanting,
laid back shoulder blade. Strongly muscled.Upper arm : Long, with good and lean muscles.Elbows : Close fitting to body, turning
neither in nor out.Forearm : Lean, vertical and straight. Strong bone, very well muscled.Pastern joint : Strong.Pastern : Slanting lightly.Front feet : Spoon shaped
with well arched, tight toes as well as sufficiently cushioned, coarse, resistant and well pigmented pads. Feet
move parallel; in stance and movement turning neither in nor out.Nails black or horn colour. HINDQUARTERS :General : Strong bone. Seen from rear, straight and parallel. Good
angulations.Upper thigh : Broad and very muscular.Stifle : Strong.Lower thigh : Relatively long, muscular and sinewy.Hock joint : Strong.Rear pastern : Short, standing vertical.Hind feet : Spoon shaped, with well arched,
tight toes as well as sufficiently cushioned, coarse resistant and well pigmented pads. Feet move parallel;
in stance and movement turning neither in nor out. Nails black or horn colour. GAIT / MOVEMENT : Ground covering, with good reach
in front and strong drive from the rear. Fore- and hindlegs straight and parallel; lightly springy gait. SKIN : Strong, tight fitting. COAT HAIR : Dense, close fitting, moderately harsh with little gloss. Finer on head and
leathers, harsher and longer on belly, legs and tail. COLOUR : Deep red, deer red,
reddish brown, tan, also clear fawn to biscuit colour, reddish gray as the winter coat of a deer, also brindled or interspersed
with black hairs. The basic colour on the back is generally more intense, muzzle and leathers dark.
Tail, mostly, interspersed with dark hair. Small light-coloured patch on chest (“Bracken Star”)
permitted. SIZE :Height at withers : Dogs : 47 to 52 cm.
Bitches : 44 to 48 cm.No departure from above permitted in either dogs or bitches. FAULTS : Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should
be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog. SERIOUS FAULTS : - Flesh coloured nose.
- Mouth slightly over-
or undershot. Partial pincer bite.
- Very loose eyelids.
- Marked hollow or roach back.
- Very flat or barrel shaped
chest.
- Very in or out at elbow.
- Distinctly
overbuilt hindquarters.
- Hindlegs very close, cow-hocked or bow-shaped, in
stance or movement.
- Too fine or thin coat.
- Strong deviation in colour, black colour with red markings (Black and Tan).
- Deviation in size.
DISQUALIFYING FAULTS : · Aggresive or overly shy. - Markedly
over- or undershot, wry mouth.
- Missing teeth (except P1).
- Ectropion, entropion.
- Tail kinked from birth.
- Weakness in temperament.
Any dog clearly showing physical or behavioural abnormalities shall be
disqualified. N.B. : Male animals
should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
UK KC Bavarian
Mountain Hound Breed Standard General Appearance A well balanced, lightly built, muscular and powerful, clean cut hound, of medium size. Body slightly longer than
high. Characteristics A natural ability to hunt cold scent with
perseverance and endurance. Temperament Calm,
devoted to owner, biddable, reserved with strangers, not shy or aggressive. Head and Skull Moderately broad. Skull flat, with no pronounced occiput. Well defined stop. Muzzle shorter than skull,
moderately broad, lips pendulous of medium thickness, well pigmented with corner of lips clearly visible. Nose of moderate
size with well open nostrils. Black or dark red. Eyes Medium
size, not too large or too round. Dark brown or hazel, alert expression. Well fitting lids, eye rims well pigmented. Ears Heavy. Set moderately high. Broad, rounded at tips. Hanging close
and flat to head. Reaching no further than the nose. Mouth Jaws
strong with a perfect regular and complete scissor bite, set square to the jaw. Neck Strong, of medium length. Skin somewhat looser on throat. Forequarters Muscular and strongly boned. Shoulders well laid back. Upper arm long. Elbows close fitting to body. Forelegs
straight and parallel when viewed from the front; standing well under the body when viewed from side. Pasterns strong, slightly
sloping. Body Back strong and supple. Topline rising
slightly from withers to long, level croup. Ribcage oval, deep, long and reaching far back. Loin short, broad and well muscled.
Slight tuck up. Hindquarters Good angulation, strongly boned and well muscled.
Upper thigh broad. Lower thigh relatively long. Hocks well let down. Rear pasterns vertical and parallel. Feet Strong, turning neither in nor out. Oval feet with well arched,
tight toes. Pads well cushioned and pigmented. Nails black or horn colour. Tail Set high, tapering, of moderate length, not reaching below hock. Carried level or slightly lower than back. Gait/Movement Light, springy, ground covering with good
reach in front and strong drive from the rear. Coat Dense
and close fitting, moderately harsh, finer on head and ears. Colour Deer red, tan or fawn, any of which may be interspersed with black hairs, or brindle. The back and tail generally being
more intense in colour. Muzzle and leathers darker in colour. A small, light coloured patch on chest allowed. Size Dogs: 47-52cms (18 ½ – 20 ½ ins ). Bitches
44-48 cms (17 ½ -19 ins). Faults Any
departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded
should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog. Note Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles
fully descended into the scrotum.
 |
 |
 |
 |

 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|